Cambodia, In Sum

I have not been a religious blogger, and long tales of our exploits will have to wait until I get home. For now, I'll just give you a quick list of some of the (mis)adventureswe've had, the trips we've taken, and some of the incredible people we've met.

*Siem Reap: Three days in the blazing heat for a vist to Angkor Wat; discovered the best breakfast soup/noodles in the world at a street stall; battled hordes of Japanese tourists for the best viewing locations.  Saw unforgettable, awe-inspiring temples, a tribute not so much to the gods as the determination, creativity, and devotion of a people.

*Kampot/Bokor Mountain:  Spent the night at a remote ranger station at the top of one of the southern mountains; hung out with our driver, named Tree, who survived the Khmer Rouge by living alone in the jungle for a year at the age of 19, after his entire family was killed by the KR; had an adult black panther jump in front our car, which cursed us with bad luck for a week.

*Mondulkiri: Took a hellish journey on 'the road the devil himself built' to the most remote and beautiful province in Cambodia; saw some hidden waterfalls and tried not to fall over the edge; I suffered from food poising on during the brutal 12 hour journey there.

*The Tailor Known As Grandma:  Had clothes custom made for us by a tiny, very wrinkly, adorable 78 year old woman who doesn't speak a word of English and wears the same sarong everyday, but has a great sense of fashion and can make absolutely anything in two days.

*Grandpa the Landlord: Hung out with our landlord (really the husband of our landlady), a charming old man who has lived all around the world directing oil and gas projects; he speaks about a dozen languages fluently, but choses to spend his days wearing a porkpie hat and guarding the door.

*Went to, and participated in, a traditional Khmer wedding, which includes a procession where people carry cases of beer and whole legs of lamb, and getting dressed up in non-matching guady outfits and putting on excessive amounts of clown make-up.

*Hung out with lots of sex workers, children of sex workers, garment workers, farmers, and HIV/AIDS patients both in the office and at their homes/places of work; the sex workers are obsessed with my nose; (actually thats true of most Cambodians who are surprised that someone with the same skin color as them looks so different).

*Visited the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng, a former KR secret prison, and talked to people about life under the KR. Heard stories that would make your blood curdle, but also tales of enduring love, friendship, bravery, perseverance, and the will to survive. 

*Checked out every market in town (and there are a lot) and know all the nicest, and most willing to bargain, sellers; also know, and have ridden with most of the moto-drivers in Phnom Penh, including a man with only one eye, a guy with a strong nervous twitch, and an amputee.

*And of course, I learned A LOT from the people in my office about the nature of international development, Cambodia, specific social issues, and what it means to devote yourself to projects you truly believe in.